Trying To Save Money Can Cost You A Fortune

Should you buy your own gear for an electrical job or let the electrician supply it?

Some people are very focused on minimising the costs of any home improvement project they undertake.

For electrical work, this shows up as the client purchasing and supplying their own materials.  They believe that they can save money by buying direct rather than having the electrician supply the gear.

Sometimes the client can save money this way, especially with they type of appliances typically available at major hardware chains.

The buying power of the major hardware chains can result in some very cheap prices, although the brands are usually not the same as those the contractor would source through a wholesaler.

Most contractors wouldn’t have a problem with their clients supplying some of the gear, provided it is properly approved and certified for use in Australia.

Although the client is trying to save money by supplying their own gear, in many cases the client ends up paying much more than if they just let the electrician take care of things.

For example, most electrical wholesalers have a “Cash Sale” price for walk-in customers that is considerably higher than the trade price they charge to electricians for the same item.

Just because a client purchases something from a wholesaler doesn’t mean they are getting a bargain.

We have seen plenty of examples where the client would have got their gear cheaper if we purchased it, added a margin and GST and sold it to the client, compared to the price the client had paid direct.

A client often can save some money by providing their own materials, but in doing so they also take on the risk associated with those materials.

If the contractor supplies gear that turns out to be faulty they will be able to supply replacement items under warranty and probably cover the labour cost of replacing the faulty parts as well.

If the client supplies an item that is faulty then the client has to deal with getting a replacement under warranty and also bear the full cost of labour to rectify the problem.

One of our clients arranged for us to install a new electronic timer they had purchased.  The timer turned out to be faulty and the client lived 45 minutes drive from our workshop.  If we had supplied the timer we would have borne the cost of rectifying the situation.

The client saved $15 on the cost of the timer, and got a free replacement, but paid an extra $200 for having it installed twice.

Another client purchased their own sensor light and saved a tiny amount of money and then wore the cost of an after hours callout when the light failed soon after being installed.

Yet another client purchased their own air-transfer fan and a separate speed controller, but the two items weren’t compatible.  The motor burnt out and the client ended up paying twice for both the fan and the installation.

So, yes sometimes it is possible to save money on buying your own materials, but you should probably get a quote from your contractor to make sure you aren’t unintentionally dudding yourself.

When you do provide your own gear you should be aware of the potential risk you assume and compare that risk to the small savings you are making on the purchase costs.

If you focus on cost alone, your job may actually cost you much more than you need to pay.

It’s better to focus on value and ensure you get a great result at a fair price and without taking on the hassles usually taken care of by the electrical contractor.

Rewiring Your Home. The Truth About Rewires – Part 3

Did You Get The Rewire You Paid For?

In part 1 of our Truth About Rewires series we looked at “The Cheapest Quote Rewire”, where everything is done as cheap and nasty as possible, and in part 2 we investigated “The Cosmetic Rewire” where everything looks good on the surface but the ugly truth is lurking just underneath.

Click here to read The Truth About Home Rewires – Part 1

Click here to read The Truth About Home Rewires – Part 2

Today we are going to discuss “The Too Hard Basket Rewire” which in some ways is a combination of the Cheapest Quote and Cosmetic rewires.

In a Too Hard Basket rewire the contractor starts out with good intentions and has quoted to replace all the old wiring in the home and do everything properly.

Unfortunately, when the going gets tough, the good intentions can fall by the wayside.

In a Too Hard Basket rewire, the easy stuff gets done properly but the difficult parts are left as they are, as the tradesmen decide some things are just too hard to deal with.

Typically this means any cable that is hard to access will not be replaced.  Those switch wires that couldn’t be pulled up the wall are left in place and reconnected to new switches.  The stove circuit is old rubber but it looks in reasonable condition so it’s left as is, to save that long crawl under the floor dragging a new circuit.

Maybe the job is taking longer than expected and the contractor is under pressure to get it finished as soon as possible.  Maybe the workers don’t have a high level of care and will just go back to the workshop and tell the boss it’s all finished.

Whatever the situation, the home owner has paid for a full and proper rewire, but with the Too Hard Basket rewire they are not getting everything they paid for.

We usually discover a Too Hard Basket rewire when we are called out to a fault caused by the old wiring.  The home owner assures us all has been rewired but our investigation soon reveals the truth.

The reason the lights in the back part of the house don’t work is because the original contractor didn’t take the time and effort to lift the roofing iron and replace the old cables running through the flat roof area.

We then do the work that should have been done during the rewire and the client pays again for something they already paid to have done.

There is a lot of confusion, and sometimes misdirection, about the extent of work that has been carried out during a “rewire”.

To avoid getting caught by a less than proper rewire you should always get a detailed quote that spells out exactly what work will be carried out.  And always use an established, reputable contractor to ensure the work you are paying for has actually been done.

Rewiring Your Home. The Truth About Rewires – Part 2

Not All Rewires Are Actually Rewires

In part 1 of our rewire series we explored the joys of “The Cheapest Quote” rewire, where everything is done to the bare minimum, using the cheapest materials, there’s no time to doing things properly and shortcuts are taken everywhere.

Click here to read The Truth About Home Rewires – Part 1

Click here to read The Truth About Rewires – Part 3

Another type of rewire we commonly see is “The Cosmetic Rewire”

With the cosmetic rewire everything looks good on the surface, but the ugly truth is lurking just underneath.

With the cosmetic rewire you get a brand new switchboard, new power point fittings and switches and light fittings, and everything that’s visible looks shiny and new.

You even get a few short pieces of brand new cable disappearing up into the roof space.

Unfortunately those pieces of new cable are all joined to the old cable that’s still crumbling away in the ceiling.

It’s the same story with the switches and power points.  The fittings are new but they are still connected to the old wiring.  Quite often that old wiring is in very poor condition and is a real safety issue.

The worst part is that often the home owner thinks their property has been properly rewired.  They believe their home is as safe as it can electrically be, with all the old dangerous cable gone for ever.

It’s a false sense of security based on false assumptions.

The home owner may have even paid for a complete rewire, but what they ended up with is quite different.

Cosmetic rewires are often found in homes that are offered for sale.

Potential buyers can see all the new fittings and they assume that everything is new.  Sometimes the real estate agents are working under the same false assumptions as the home owner and advertise the property as being rewired.

To avoid being caught out by the Cosmetic Rewire you should always get a pre-purchase electrical inspection on any property you are considering buying.  An investment of $150 can save you thousands of dollars in unexpected costs.

To avoid paying for a Cosmetic Rewire of your existing home you should always deal with a reputable electrical contractor and get a detailed quote that sets out exactly what extent of work will be carried out.

Rewiring Your Home. The Truth About Rewires – Part 1

If you have an older home maybe you still have some older wiring in use as well.

These days all new wiring is thermoplastic insulated, with a life expectancy of at more than 40 years.  Older homes used a variety of cable types, all of which are now due for replacement.

The common types of original cable you might find in an older home include Lead, VIR and Rubber.

Lead insulated cables are well past their use-by date and can cause dangerous situations.  We recommend that all lead cable be replaced or disconnected immediately.

VIR is a cloth insulated cable installed in a split metal conduit.  The VIR system uses the conduit for earthing. Over time the insulation deteriorates and the conduit joints come apart and the earth connection is lost.

Rubber insulated cable becomes brittle as it ages and if disturbed the insulation just falls off, exposing bare wires.


All three cable types are potential fire and electric shock hazards.

The only way to safely upgrade these old cables is by rewiring your home..

A full rewire involves removing every piece of old cable and replacing it with new cable.  At the same time new switches and power point fittings are installed and the old fuse board is replaced with a new circuit breaker switchboard, with safety switches.

Your mains cables may also be replaced at this stage.  Your mains are the cables that go from your switchboards to the incoming power supply point.

Rewiring your home usually takes 3-5 days work to complete a full rewire with new mains and switchboard.

There are plenty of older homes in Launceston, so at Mance Electrical we do quite a few rewires, and we also see quite a few rewires done by others.

It’s obvious that all rewires are not created equal.

Some home owners think their house has been rewired – meaning completely and fully rewired, but the truth is often a little different.

 

The Cheapest Quote Rewire

One of the common situations we see is what we call the “Cheapest Quote Rewire”.

In the Cheapest Quote Rewire everything is done to the bare minimum.

The mains cables will probably be new, but the smallest possible size, with no room for expansion.

The switchboard will also be the bare minimum with no room for extra circuit breakers for additional circuits in the future.  Bad luck if you thought you might build on a couple of extra rooms later, or install a nice big heat pump.

An even cheaper trick is to leave your old mains cables in place and fit a load-limiting circuit breaker instead.  If you try and run your heater, oven and clothes dryer at the same time your power will overload and trip out.

The old cables may not be removed as required, due to the time that takes.  New cables will not be installed in a tidy manner and will not be clipped as required – again because of time constraints.

Much of the work may be done by unsupervised apprentices rather than qualified tradesmen.  Regulations are conveniently forgotten in the rush to get the job finished quickly.

With the cheapest quote rewire there is not enough time allowed to do a quality job.  The object is to win the job by putting in the cheapest price and then do it as quickly and cheaply as possible.

There are other types of rewire that are not quite what they seem.  Things might look good on the surface, but there might be an ugly truth lurking underneath

Click here for The Truth About Home Rewires Part 2 – The Cosmetic Rewire

Click here for The Truth About Home Rewires Part 3 – The Too Hard Basket Rewire

Lightning Strike – Is Your Home Safe?

Lightning Strike – Is Your Home Safe?

Key Takeaways. Keep Your Home and Family Safe

  1. In Australia, there are about 5–10 deaths each year from lightning strikes, and over 100 people injured.
  2. Many dangers occur indoors, not just outside, roughly one-third of lightning-related injuries happen inside buildings.
  3. A single lightning bolt carries tremendous energy, about 5 billion joules, enough to power a 100 W light bulb for many months.
  4. Lightning doesn’t need to strike your roof to damage your home: it can travel via wiring, plumbing, or ground current.
  5. If you hear thunder,  you are in potential danger: seek shelter immediately, unplug vulnerable devices, and avoid water or metal contact.

Quick Facts & What You Should Know

Lightning strikes remain a real danger. Recently, a woman from South Australia was taken to the hospital after being struck by lightning. Even when your home seems safe, indirect strikes via wiring, plumbing, or soil conduction can still pose serious threats. Awareness and preparation are your first lines of defence.

Because lightning can travel through wiring, plumbing, and even the soil around a building, a direct strike is not the only risk. Indirect strikes, for example via a nearby tree hit or ground current,  can severely damage your home’s electrical and structural systems and pose danger to occupants.

So: yes, homes can be vulnerable. Awareness and preparation matter.

How Lightning Poses a Risk to Homes and People

When lightning strikes, it unleashes enormous energy. Even without a direct hit, the current can travel through many pathways , and that’s where danger lies.

Lightning: pathways and hazards

  • Electrical wiring & switchboards: A strike or surge can overload wiring, blow fuses, damage switchboards, or even cause fires.
  • Plumbing & water pipes: Metal pipes conduct electricity; water is conductive too. Lightning current can travel through sinks, baths, showers or taps, making plumbing risky during storms.
  • Phone/data lines and antenna or reception wiring: Corded landline phones, or poorly grounded antenna/data wiring, can carry surges or lightning energy into the home.
  • Ground / soil conduction & “side-flashes”: Even strikes to nearby ground, trees or soil can transmit dangerous current through soil, foundations or nearby metal objects, potentially entering the building.

Because of these possible pathways, sensitive electronics (computers, TVs, dishwashers, microwaves, etc.) and household wiring remain vulnerable, not just to direct hits, but also to surges or indirect conduction.

What You Should Do: Before, During & After a Storm

Before Storm Season / Ahead of a Forecast

  • Check grounding & earthing of your home: Ensure lightning-protection systems, grounding rods, and surge arresters (on power, data, antennae) are properly installed and maintained.
  • Install whole-home surge protection (not just plug-in surge strips) to guard against surges from nearby strikes.
  • Ensure your switchboard, wiring and switchgear are up to date, especially in older homes; degraded insulation or faulty wiring increases risk.
  • Engage a licensed electrician if you’re unsure, especially in storm-prone regions, to inspect wiring, earthing and surge-protection setup.

During a Storm (Indoor & Immediate Actions)

  • Unplug non-essential electronics: computers, TVs, routers, washing machines, microwaves, and other sensitive or expensive devices.
  • Avoid all water use: do not shower, bathe, wash dishes, or use sinks, washing machines, or any plumbing-connected appliance.
  • Avoid using corded phones or wired devices: use only cordless or mobile phones if not charging.
  • Stay away from windows, doors, porches, concrete floors/walls or metal fixtures: metal or reinforced concrete can conduct electricity.
  • If you’re outside, seek solid shelter immediately: a well-built, fully enclosed building or a hard-topped enclosed vehicle (with windows up) provides best protection during a storm.

After the Storm

  • Wait at least 30 minutes after the last thunder before resuming outdoor activity, lightning can strike even when the storm seems over.
  • Inspect your home’s electrical system if you experienced a nearby strike, check switchboard, wiring and appliances; if unsure, call a licensed electrician.
  • Test surge protection, RCDs, grounding and circuit breakers if such systems are present, ensure they still function correctly.
  • Document any damage (scorch marks, appliance failures, burned sockets, disrupted wiring), photos help for insurance claims and repairs.

Why Surge-Protectors and Power-Spike Devices Aren’t Enough

Plug-in surge protectors are useful for everyday power fluctuations, but have serious limitations when it comes to lightning. A typical surge protector may handle small spikes, but a lightning strike carries enormous energy that can overwhelm or bypass standard surge-protection devices.

Lightning current can enter a home through multiple paths, not only power wiring but also data lines, antenna wiring, plumbing, and grounding systems. A simple power strip cannot protect against all these entry points. In high-risk areas, a professionally designed lightning-protection system (lightning rods / air terminals, proper grounding or earthing, surge arresters on all incoming utilities) along with regular maintenance provides a more reliable defence.

Real-World Incidents & Why This Matters

  • Safety authorities report that many lightning-related injuries occur indoors, often via plumbing or wiring conduction rather than direct strikes.
  • These realistic risks reinforce that a well-built home does not guarantee immunity, caution, proper wiring/grounding, and safe behaviour during storms are essential.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

1. Can lightning really damage my computer, TV or appliances even if it doesn’t strike my house directly?

Yes, an indirect lightning strike (for example to nearby power lines, ground, or trees) can send powerful surges through wiring, data or plumbing into your home and damage electronics. If a storm is approaching or thunder is heard, unplug non-essential devices immediately.

2. Is it safe to shower, wash dishes or use water during a thunderstorm?

No, plumbing and water conduct electricity, so using water during a storm is risky. Avoid showers, baths, sinks, washing machines or other plumbing-connected appliances whenever there is thunder or lightning.

3. Are surge protectors enough to protect my home and devices from lightning?

Not necessarily. Surge protectors help with ordinary surges, but are typically insufficient against the massive energy of a nearby or direct lightning strike, consider grounding, whole-home surge arresters, or a full lightning-protection system for better protection.

4. If lightning strikes nearby, but not my house, could my home still be at risk?

Yes. Ground current, soil conduction or nearby strikes can transmit dangerous current through plumbing, wiring or foundations, even when your home wasn’t directly hit. Treat any thunderstorm seriously: unplug devices and avoid water or conductive contact until the storm passes.

5. Is it safe to use cordless or mobile phones during a thunderstorm?

Yes, as long as the phone isn’t plugged in or wired to the home’s electrical or phone system. Avoid using corded landline phones during storms.

 

The Difference Between An Electrician And An Electrical Contractor

There is an important distinction between an electrician and an electrical contractor.

An electrician is a person who has completed a 4 year apprenticeship, training alongside qualified tradespeople and regularly attending TAFE classes.  In order to become qualified, an apprentice must pass all their TAFE subjects and also the final exam, which is called the Capstone Test.

Once the apprenticeship is completed, the apprentice applies to the local regulator for an electrical practitioners licence.

When the license is granted the tradesperson is authorised to carry out electrical work in accordance with the AS/NZ3000 wiring rules.

Even though they are fully qualified and licenced there is one important restriction for a qualified tradesperson.

A tradesperson is not allowed to carry out electrical work on their own behalf, and charge clients for that work.  In order to conduct an electrical business the practitioner must obtain an electrical contractors license.

Gaining a contractors license requires further study, passing more exams and other requirements such as insurance cover and reporting obligations.

So your average tradesperson cannot set up in business for themselves.  They can only work for a licensed electrical contractor, unless they go through the process of obtaining a contractors license themselves.

Electrical contractors are required to submit paperwork to TasNetworks and the Electrical Inspectors for all but minor electrical works.  This results in their work being regularly inspected to ensure they are complying with the wiring rules and safety regulations.

Back-yarders who work without a contractors license do not advise the regulators of the work they do and subsequently that work is never inspected to make sure it has been done safely and correctly.

Back-yarders also won’t have the required insurance cover which means you could be left holding the bag if something goes wrong.  How do you think your insurance company would react if your home was damaged or destroyed as a result of unlicensed electrical work?

Always use a licensed electrical contractor for any electrical work, no matter how small, to ensure the safety of your family and your  property.

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